Climb a moderate face (1 bolt) to a second bolt at a roof band. Go straight up an overhanging, right-facing corner. Traverse left under a bolt on a bulge, then go up into a small, left-facing corner and the top.

This is a tricky, .12, endurance pumpfest.

Pumping Hate

Pitch Black

Burning Inside

Da Funk

Jerry's Final Thoughts

Piedra Pillar Rim Route

3 AM  Eternal

Balanced Rock Pillar

New Dark Ages

Big Cave Corner

Piedra Pillar Center

Piedra Pillar Left EdgeJ

Black Out

Gateway Drug

Rat In A Cage

Original Route

Bad Decision

Freak on a Leash

Big Guns

Pull a .10 bulge off the ground (2 bolts) to easier rock (bolt), and go up to a ledge. Step left on the ledge, and go up past 3 bolts (11a) on a steep, orange wall to the top.

Go up fragile rock past 4 bolts to a 2' roof. Climb a roof and up a black wall (10a) past 3 bolts.

Climb a .7 right-facing flake to a second bolt below a small roof. Step left to bolt, and go up fragile rock (.8) past bolt to overhanging wall (.12a) with good rock and 4 bolts. This rating is for onsight flash, as is for all my trad ground up routes.

Da Funk is a cool route but has some funk moves. It is easy to huck on lead,  but fear not - you'll be out in space and get held before you ledge out. This is very strenuous. The route overhangs about 8'.

Climb a moderate arete, .7, to a small roof. On the roof, lunge for a good hold above a bolt, .10a. Climb easy rock to 2 bolts below the rim trail.

From top of the pillar, go up an easy ridge to an overhanging wall to the top.

Climb easy black rock past one bolt to a roof band. Step right, pull triple roofs (11b/c), then go up left with 4 bolts to traditional belay below the rim trail.

Climb a face to a bulge, then pull a roof on big holds to easy rock and a bolt on a final step. This route overhangs about 8'.

This route climbs the left side of an obvious, broken arête. This route is one of the first you encounter after you hike down through the rock band from the parking lot. Climb moderate rock left of the arête past a bolt then up to a stance below a 4' roof. Pass the roof on the right (.7 with bolt), and go up.

Climb good rock (cams) to 2 bolts 30' up. Go straight up a steep wall past 5 bolts (.11) to

5's

anchor.

Pull a tiny roof to a bolt 10' off the ground (.8). Pass 2 bolts going up and right to a short, overhanging wall with short reaches (.8) 3 bolts. Easy rock leads to a right-facing corner with a .7 exit mantel.

Start up

Big Guns

on easy 3rd Class, then go to the right side of an inset below the first roof. 2 bolts lead right to a right-facing corner and ledge. 5 bolts lead up a steep wall (10c, right of the corner) to double bolts below big roofs.

Go up and left up a steep wall (.10) with 3 bolts to a big ledge. Pull a 3' roof (.10) at a bolt, then go up and left into a small, overhanging, right-facing corner (.10).

This is the short pillar just left of Piedra Pillar in Waterfall Canyon. The pillar can be climbed from the backside notch via 10' of overhanging 5.6. The balanced rock on top is super loose. Descend by a downclimb.

Climb moderate rock past 2 bolts to a ledge. Pull a double roof (.10) at a bolt, then go straight up small, right-facing corner to a roof (.10).

Climb 20' up loose, easy rock to a bolt, then go 10' up an easy right-facing corner. Go left under an orange roof and up to a bolted roof. Climb over the roof to a right-facing corner (10c/d), then traverse left into a right-facing corner and up to a belay ledge.

Climb fragile rock past 3 bolts to a 2' roof. Go over the roof to a ledge. Step left, and climb up excellent rock (.10a) past 3 bolts to the top.

Climb up (.10) past 1 bolt to a cave roof directly below a big, right-facing corner. Go over a roof at .10 into a corner. Stem the corner to a bush, then step left onto a clean wall. Pull a 3' roof (10a), and go up to the top (it should be noted that you will top out 5' right of the top anchors). The top 3' roof is 4' left of the huge, right-facing corner.

Climb the arête past 4 bolts to a 4' roof (.11d/.12a). Go up a right-facing corner to a good ledge below a headwall (2 bolts).

Pull the crux off the ground to a nice .8/.9 center of the face to the top crux .9/.9+ above the top bolt.

Climb the left edge (.6) to a crux bulge at the 3rd bolt. Finish up the left edge (.4) to the top.

Find the big cave below a huge, right-facing corner. Start 10' left of the cave at a bolt. Climb loose .6/.7 junk to ledge below a 3' roof. Power over the roof and up an overhanging wall (11c/d) past 3 bolts to the top.

Do the same start as

Burning Inside

. Climb a right-facing flake (.7) to second bolt under a small roof. Traverse right on easy rock and up into a cave. Climb the overhanging wall (.9) left of the cave roof past 3 bolts. This has fun, short reach, overhanging jug hauling.

This climb has continuous .6 and .7 moves with a .8 roof. A mantel above the second bolt avoids loose face holds. This is one of the best .8 climbs in the area.

Climb a moderate face just right of

Jerry's...

to the left end of a big roof band. Climb out the roof via a crack on big holds. Finish by going up and right to a bolt. This route overhangs about 6'. It is a fun endurance route.

Go up left-facing flakes (.9) past 2 bolts. Step right to a bolt, then go up moderate rock to a shelf below a roof. There are 3 possible exits: 1) go left to a .7 mantel of

24

. 2) pull a .10 roof at a bolt in the center of a roof. 3) go right and up the .8 roof of

Bad Decision

.

Go up easy rock to a ledge below a roof. Pull the roof (.7), then go straight up.

Go up easy black rock past 2 bolts to a black roof (10a) with an obvious bolt. Carry on to

17's

anchor.

Climb a bulging wall of super choss (.11) past 3 bolts. The first bolt is 8' off the ground. Move up a 2' roof to easy rock. Go right around a roof with bolt (.8 good rock) to the top.

I took 4 "near groundfall" leader falls (broken holds) to get my free lead, grew to hate this route, and wish I'd never got involved with this bitch.

Climb past 2 bolts to a roof band. Pull the roof (10a, cam protection) to a ledge. Go up short, right-facing corner to a 2 bolt anchor.

Climb up past 3 bolts (10c) to a small ledge. Continue straight up past bolts to the top.

Climb the moderate face to a bolt at the lip of a small roof. Make a super long reach to a one arm pull up. Lock off high, then pull through another one arm pull up to a lunge for a good hold. Climb 4 more small roofs to easy rock. The route overhangs about 8'. This would be easier (11+?) for a tall person. If you have shorter reach than me (5'10" finger tip to tip), it probably will not go free.

Climb easy 3rd Class to a roof with 3 bolts (10a), then go up to a ledge. A steep wall above (3 bolts) leads to 6' double roof (.12, 2 bolts) and a belay ledge with 2 bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Waterfall Canyon